Natural vs Synthetic Fibers

I've read that from a resources perspective, clothes made from synthetic fabrics are more sustainable. They last longer than conventional organic materials like cotton and need to be replaced less often. So the idea is that over the course of a person's lifetime, they'll consume less material and all the water, land and other resources that go with it.

There are two problems with this assertion though:

1. The repercussions of material choice extend beyond resource use.
2. People typically don't wait for one garment to wear out before replacing it.

There's toxicology to consider as well.

Runoff from putting synthetics through the wash is a major component of plastic pollution found in the ocean. And while I wish I could better appreciate it or that we had a clearer picture of the details, a perusal of the research reveals that plastics disrupt how organisms develop and function:

• Effect of polyvinyl chloride plastic on the growth and physiology of human umbilical vein endothelial cells
• Toxicological review and oral risk assessment of terephthalic acid (TPA) and its esters: a category approach
• Effects of di-(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate and four of its metabolites on steroidogenesis in MA-10 cells
• A mixture of an environmentally realistic concentration of a phthalate and herbicide reduces testosterone in male fathead minnow (Pimephales promelas) through a novel mechanism of action

There may be innocuous polymers out there and new methods for disposing of harmful ones are emerging each day. I don't subscribe to the fallacy that "natural" is always better for me; the natural world is a struggle for survival filled with poisons and other dangers out to take people down. Man-made technologies are responsible for substantial improvements in the quality of life for many. Still, it doesn't look like we're equipped to handle all the toxic waste already entering our waterways and the food chain.

Till death do us part

Maybe if people dressed like cartoon characters, sporting the same synthetic outfit wherever they're seen, synthetics would be more promising. If people bequeathed their virtually immortal polyester shirts to subsequent generations, even better in terms of sustainability, though not the best news for fashion. In reality though, the problem with synthetics, even without toxicity, is that they last too long.

In terms of consumer behavior, you wouldn't want clothes to last forever. For all the radical pragmatists and conservationists in society, most people prefer turnover in their wardrobe. It's that or look stylistically static for large periods of your life, which could pose - if only psychologically - an impediment to personal growth and reinvention. Depending on what initial choice you made for your appearance, you may find it difficult to fit in later on in life.

Actually I don't think anyone from the Scooby gang would have any issues vibing in today's social circles.

Nevertheless, internal transformation is more easily induced when one has an external reference point. It's why people seek change after harrowing experiences, part of the reason we benefit from vacations, and how some flourish after facing tragedies.

So how can we reconcile the existential need for personal progress with the material means that tend to accompany it and the physical limitations of the earth? People have sought beauty and novelty to such a historical extent that it appears fundamental to our very nature. For that reason, the superior strategy is to augment the substrates subject to our behavior, rather than the behavior itself; it's better to work with materials that accommodate the timing of our consumption choices. And those remain natural fibers that can degrade as they grow too worn for use and as we tire of them.

Don't lead a disposable life

At the same time, moving too far in the direction of disposable clothing would be a mistake too. And that in many instances seems to be what we have achieved in retail with the "just good enough" principle: clothes, furniture and other products from IKEA, Urban Outfitters and the like that appear increasingly designed for one-time use. Although it's not quite the paper dress of the sixties, it's close when, as a friend put it, you wash a shirt and it's ruined.

I don't expect people to stop washing their clothes or replace all their nylons with - wool socks? But I do think it's wise to refrain from acrylic, nylon and polyester until Mother Nature or a lab comes up with a bug to help us digest them, since we can't.

More on plastics in society and ecology

Here is some more information on the ecological nature of plastic from the perspective of artist and activist Dianna Cohen, who has also founded the Plastic Pollution Coalition, an organization committed to displacing disposable plastic products in our economy.

One of their initiatives is "Ban the Bag" or municipally banning plastic bags. So far Maui, San Francisco and San Jose among others have done so, with other cities, including New York, considering similar legislation.

Cohen's talk on this subject comes from TED, a resource I will be bound to pull more material from in the future.



I have been conducting my own investigation into the actual chemical dynamics of different plastics and their interaction with biology, but the information is not as readily available as I had expected it to be. So far I have come across biodegradable plastics and have read that even more conventional plastics degrade within a year at sea, but that does not seem to be a guarantee that they have no negative impact on the health of humans or other organisms.

Cohen states that "plastic . . . is always still plastic" in her talk and for all sense and purposes that may be considered the case. While plastic polymers can break back down into their constituent monomers, the speed and scale at which this occurs under typical conditions may be insignificant as polymers can wreak havoc on biological pathways in the meantime, which in turn might prolong such decomposition from taking place.

Even in the event that a plastic does revert to its monomers, that by no means renders it any safer, not least because associated chemicals that would leech into the environment as a result are known to be toxic, such as the now infamous Bisphenol A. The monomers the make up commercial plastics are organic molecules, but so is benzene, a structurally related compound and a well-known carcinogen.

Everything comes at a cost and we must be practical, but is this our best option? Is pumping poison into our surroundings a reasonable price to pay to conveniently carry our groceries home or eat out on a whim?